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透视千禧一代引爆千禧力量

TheMarginalist边际主义 2016-10-08 00:21:07 明星时尚阅读(0) 评论()

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　　透视千禧一代引爆千禧力量

　　THE GLOBAL INSIDER: THE POWER OF MILLENNIALS

　　专栏作者Yanie Durocher深度剖析

　　千禧一代对时尚业方方面面的影响

　　Columnist Yanie Durocher talks about

　　how millennials are shaping every facet of

　　the fashion industry - Article created for FASHION STATEMENT ASIA

　　千禧一代的社交达人对时尚业的推动作用空前巨大，引得业界领导者纷纷侧目—中国尤为突出。

　　Millennial social media influencers are driving fashion more than they ever have before, and industry leaders are paying attention – especially in China.

　　中国版Vogue主编Angelica Cheung近期推出一款全新的杂志Vogue Me，目标读者为年轻的千禧一代。杂志首期封面大片邀请了三位人气明星进行演绎：中国的演员兼歌手鹿晗、日本的模特水原希子和美国的模特Pyper America Smith（Lucky Blue Smith的姐姐，拥有超过1000万的Instagram粉丝）。Cheung比较了这2本子母杂志，并就应对不同年龄层需求的必要性发表了个人看法。

　　Vogue China editor-in-chief Angelica Cheungrecently launched a new magazine called Vogue Me specifically to target millennials. The debut issue featured popular social media celebrities such as Chinese singer and actor Luhan, Japanese model KikoMizuharaand American model Pyper America Smith– Lucky Blue Smith’s sister – who between them have + 15 million Instagram followers. Cheunghas commented on the need to target different age groups, comparing her two magazines to a mother and daughter.

　　配合着‘I ___ in my Calvins’的标语以及90后品牌代言人的加盟，如：Kendall Jenner、Zoe Kravitz、Justin Beiber、FKA Twigs和G.E.M.，Calvin Klein依靠千禧一代打造的广告大获成功。

　　Calvin Klein’s ads have become a huge success with millennials, with their slogan, ‘I ___ in my Calvins’ and the involvement of brand ambassadors such as Kendall Jenner, Zoe Kravitz, Justin Bieber, FKA Twigs, G.E.M and more.

　　此外，19岁女演员Chloe Moretz第三次担任Coach品牌代言人，大众情人吴亦凡也于今年“牵手”Bulgari。

　　In addition 19-year-old actress Chloe Moretz is on her third season as a brand ambassador for Coachwhile heart-breaker Kris Wuwas appointed as this year’s global brand ambassador for Bulgariwatches.

　　Kris Wu- Bulgari Campaign

　　“我们的社交媒体给予了这些年轻女孩子发言权并为她们提供了相应的平台，但她们也绝非是什么普通的‘路人甲’模特，”美国版Teen Vogue前任主编Amy Astley对WWD说。“如今的年轻人对那些创意满满、利用社交媒体开创事业并发布信息的人保持着开明的态度。”

　　‘Social media has allowed these girls to have a voice and a platform and not just be some random, anonymous model,’said former US Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Amy Astleyto WWD. ‘Young people today are totally open to a self-invented person who uses social media to launch their career and put their message out there.’

　　Hari NEF - Runway

　　Tom Ford邀请Lucky Blue Smith出镜代言2016春夏广告大片，Versace秋冬系列的品牌大使由Gigi Hadid担任，Fendi则选择了Jenner。其中最为成功的品牌重塑莫过于Gucci的创意总监Alessandro Michele带领的千禧团队，如：变性演员兼模特的Hari Nef担任Gucci品牌大使、歌手Olly Alexander演绎2016秋冬系列、Florence Welch成为品牌腕表首饰的代言人。他们青春演绎的气息与品牌重塑后的缤纷美学相得益彰，使得Gucci的母公司开云集团从中狠捞一笔金。

　　Tom Fordselected Lucky Blue Smithas the face of his SS16 campaign, Versacechose Gigi Hadidas its AW16 ambassador, and Fendichose Kendall Jenner, the list goes on. One of the most successful millennial branding revamps came when Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele chose brand ambassadors such as transgender actress and model Hari Nef , musicians Olly Alexanderand Florence Welchfor his AW16 collection and Chris Lee for his watch and jewellery collections. They were the perfect people to match the colourful aristocratic pop aesthetics of the newly reinvented brand which also resulted in a major global sales boost for Gucci.

　　驾驭千禧品牌力量意味着吸引年轻人，他们将社交媒体和娱乐话题融为一体，并根据偶像的态度和观点挑选心目中的楷模，绝非仅仅只是颜控。而这些楷模的设定则为史上最具消费能力的一群人。去年，据WWD报道，Instagram上关于时尚品牌的帖子数量增长了400%，其中关于千禧达人参与的VIP活动成为品牌内容的主力军。各大品牌甘愿一掷千金邀请小鲜肉录制10分钟的直播视频，或让他们在微博和微信平台上转发关于品牌的帖子。

　　Harnessing millennial branding power means appealing to a generation that merges entertainment and social media, and chooses their role models for their attitude and perspective rather than simply their looks. And those millennials are set to have the highest spending power in history. Last year, according to WWD, the number of Instagram posts from fashion brands increased by 400%, while VIP events attended by millennial influencers have become fundamental for most brands. Brands are willing to spend heavily for 10 minutes of live vlogging from the right influencer, or for them to repost on platforms like Weibo and WeChat.

　　然而，进驻千禧市场绝非易事。虽然选择范围空前广泛，媒体消费习惯不断变化，但他们却倾向于与某一品牌进行长期稳定的合作，便于品牌建立长期客户关系。

　　However, the millennial market is tough to tap into. They have more choices than any previous generation, and their media consumption habits evolve constantly, but they are also likely to follow and interact with a brand over a lengthy period of time, which brands can harness to create long-term relationships with their customers.

　　对于品牌来说，它们需要找准定位，将关注点放到目标客户上而不是围着这群年轻人后面转悠。举个例子：印刷杂志努力“笼络”核心读者。“对于那些只买印刷杂志的人来说，他们不见得会对这些小鲜肉感兴趣，” 《智族GQ》的前资深时尚编辑练自强说，他将杂志网络版和传统版进行了完美融合，“他们的目的是购买到一本带有真知灼见的杂志，能够开辟新思路或是从专业的角度探讨某一话题。”

　　Brands need to make sure, however, that they stay focused on their target audience rather than chasing around this group of young people. Print magazines, for example, could struggle to keep their core audience. ‘People who still buy print media do not necessarily want to see these young kids,’ says former GQChina senior fashion editor Lian Ziqiang,who integrated the print and digital versions of the magazine in Beijing. ‘They are buying print in order to understand something new, something more in depth with professional opinions.’

　　对于时尚品牌来说，Gucci指明了前行的方向；吸引年轻人眼光在于权衡利弊，植根品牌的初衷和精髓。

　　For fashion brands, Guccishows the way forward; appealing to millennials is all about striking a balance and staying authentic to the brand’s roots.